Declarer Play


RainBow Series - Lesson XII


Declarer Play


 
        Consistent with Ward Rule #2 ("Behave politely,
bid obnoxiously!"), Declarer's first task is to thank
dummy for tabling hir hand.  Try to refrain from 
expressing any disappointment, since this may serve
to "tip your hand" and make matters worse.  It would
NOT be a good time to ask:  "Partner, where is the hand 
you held during the AUCTION?"  :)

        After thanking Partner and reminding ourselves
to keep a straight "poker" face, our THIRD task is
to COUNT OUR TRICKS.
Dummy:
S- Ax
H- AK104
D- AKQJ10
C- KJ
<- North
West
+
+
+
+
East
Declarer:
S- Q
H- 9876
D- xxxx
C- 10xxx
<- South

        In 3NT you have EIGHT certain tricks here.

        Your next task is the DEFINE YOUR GOAL or
"TARGET".  At IMPs or RUBBER, this usually involves 
MAKING YOUR CONTRACT.  Only if you are playing in a 
sacrifice does your TARGET change to that of holding 
the damage down to an amount commensurate with 
whatever you are sacrificing against.  For example, 
if they can make 4H for 620, while you toil in 4S
doubled, you will want to lose no more than -500.

        At MatchPoints, your TARGET is not quite so
clear.  Basically, you must aim to take enough
tricks to beat the scores attained by others
holding your cards.  If, for example, you are
in 2D and notice that 1NT is a plausible contract
that will make 8 tricks for 120, you will need
to make TEN tricks for +130 in order to beat the 
many "no trumpers".


Counting


        Your first task after thanking partner 
for the dummy is to COUNT YOUR TRICKS.  Start
with your certain tricks.  Then start planning
how you may be able to improve on this total.

        As the play proceeds, count your 
opponents cards in each suit.  This mental
exercise requires practice, but if you get into
the habit of doing it on EVERY hand, your "card
sense" will improve...and will come in very
handy in MANY endings.  Watch your opponents'
signals carefully for any clues that they may
render.  Always make careful note of their
signalling methods, and ask questions wherever
appropriate.

        Bear in mind the bidding.  If an
opponent shows great length in one suit (as
with, say, a weak 2-bid) chances are that this
player's PARTNER will have length in any OTHER
suit.  Also keep in mind the fact that any
non-preemptive bid by any opponent tends to
increase that players chances of holding any
outstanding honour.  In such cases, then, 
COUNT THAT OPPONENTS points as they appear.
You can often locate an opponent's HCPs by
inferring that they "need" this card in order
to have enough for their bid.


Planning


        Planning is integral to increasing your number 
of certain tricks towards your TARGET.  Vital to this 
process is a grounding in the odds of various plans 
working.  Barring any bidding by the opponents, a 
finesse is a 50% chance.  The chance of finding TWO 
cards favourably placed is (50% x 50% =) 25%.

        Suits tend to break "off-center".  If
there are six outstanding cards in a suit, 
then, the odds are (about 2-1) in favour of
a 4-2 split.  About 36% of the time it will
break 3-3, with 5-1 and 6-0 breaks taking up
less than 2% between them.

        With FIVE cards outstanding, the odds
favour a 3-2 split about 2-1 over a 4-1 break.
"Hawaii" (i.e. 5-0) splits are rare (1%), unless
you happen to MY partner and we are in a critical
slam--whereupon the odds zoom up to 100%. :(

        With 4 cards outstanding, the percentages
favour a 3-1 (50%) over a 2-2 split (40%), with
a 4-0 break occurring 10% of the time.

        3 outstanding cards will split 2-1
about 2/3 of the time, with a 3-0 break occurring
once in three times.

        These simple percentages will prove
invaluable in your planning.  If, for example,
you must choose between hinging your TARGET on
either a 3-3 split (36%) OR a finesse (50%),
TAKE THE HOOK!   ("hook" means "finesse").


D.O.S.E.S.


        Often you will find yourself in a 
situation where achieving your TARGET seems
impossible.  Here, our approach must be to try
to find some favourable lie of the cards (or some
ruse) that will allow us to succeed.  No matter
how outlandish the line of play may be, we must
pursue a slim chance where the alternative is
NO chance.  When DESPERATE, then, be OPTIMISTIC.

        On the other hand, a secure contract
will often be lost because we were too complacent
and failed to account for the one unlikely event
which would cause us to FAIL in our quest.  When
you seem SAFE, then, be EXTREMELY SUSPICIOUS.

        These two maxims give us "DOSES":  when
Desperate be Optimistic, when Safe be Extremely
Suspicious.
Dummy:
S- xxx
H- KQx
D- AKQJ10
C- 32
<- North
West
+
+
+
+
East
Declarer:
S- Ax
H- xxx
D- xx
C- AK10954
<- South

     
        South, playing in 6NT, receives the S-King
lead.  Since there will be no time to work on a 
Heart trick, South starts with only 1 Spade, 2 Club
and 5 Diamond tricks.  The remaining four will have
to come from the Club suit.  Therefore, South must
go to dummy with a Diamond and IMMEDIATELY finesse
the Club 10, hoping East has started with C-QJx.
Dummy:
S- xx
H- xxx
D- AKQxxxx
C- x
<- North
West
+
+
+
+
East
Declarer:
S- AKQ
H- AKQ
D- xx
C- AKxxx
<- South

        Again playing in 6NT at IMPs, South counted  
15 tricks:  3 Spades, 3 Hearts, 7 Diamonds, 2 Clubs.
Upon winning the Spade lead, South SHOULD have stopped
and asked:  "What can wrong here?"  Instead, South
went to Dummy's Diamond Queen and, when East showed
out, found that four of the Diamond tricks had just
vanished into thin air!  Had South DUCKED the first
Diamond, the second Diamond would have acted as an
entry to the six remaining Diamond tricks.
Dummy:
H- K7654
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
H- Q32
<- South

         In 4H, let's say that your TARGET rests upon 
losing only ONE trump trick here.  Your only chance 
is what is called an "Obligatory Finesse".  Lead 
towards one of the honours--let's say, towards your 
H-Queen.  If it holds, lead a Heart back and DUCK it, 
hoping that the Ace will fall doubleton.  Your 
remaining honour will draw the last trump.


Play small towards BIG


        
        As South, consider this holding:
Dummy:
S- K4
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
S- 32
<- South

        If EAST leads a Spade, North-South will
take a Spade trick 100% of the time.  If you or
WEST leads a spade, you will take a Spade trick
50% of the time, depending on whether West or
East holds the S-Ace.  However, if NORTH is
forced to lead a Spade, you will almost NEVER 
take a Spade trick!  By leading a SMALL Spade
towards the S-King you have increased your
chances of winning a Spade trick IMMENSELY!
This illustrates one of the most fundamental rules of
card play:  play SMALL towards BIG.

        Note that the expression reads "PLAY
small towards big" and not simply "LEAD small
towards big".  Consider the case of the "free
finesse":
Dummy:
D- A54
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
D- Q32
<- South

        If WEST were to lead a Diamond here
you can GUARANTEE a Diamond trick by playing
"2nd hand LOW" from dummy.  This amounts to
nothing more than the 2nd player (North)
playing LOW towards the 4th player (South),
who will play HIGH if East does not produce
the King.  Similarly, the Simple Finesse is
a continuation of this same theme:
Dummy:
C- AQ
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
D- 32
<- South

        N-S will score only ONE trick if
North plays Clubs first, but MIGHT win TWO Club
tricks if SOUTH leads them and inserts the
C-Queen without East producing the King--a 50%
chance.

        The Double Finesse is another logical
extension of this simple theme.
Dummy:
C- AQ10
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
C- 432
<- South

        Lead small towards the North hand and
insert the C-10 if West plays small.  25% of
the time, West will hold C-KJx(x) and you will
be able to take THREE Club tricks.
Dummy:
S- AJ10
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
S- 432
<- South

        While you will always lose a Spade trick
here, you will capture TWO Spade tricks 75% of
the time by playing TWICE towards dummy's AJ10,
inserting the S-Jack and then the S-10 if West
contributes a low card.  Why 75%, you ask?  There
are TWO outstanding honours:  the S-K and S-Q.
There are FOUR possibilities, then:  West having
BOTH, West having the King, West having the Queen,
and West having NEITHER.  Only the LAST of these
four EQUALLY LIKELY scenarios prevents you from
making a second Spade trick.  Hence, the odds are 
3-1 or 75% in your favour!  Note the importance,
though, of using entries to your hand to lead
the Spades twice;  any spade from dummy will
all but eliminate your chances of taking a second 
spade trick.

        When we have high cards in BOTH hands we 
employ the "LONG and SHORT" rule, leading FROM the
LONGer suit TOWARDS the SHORTer suit.  This will
help unblock the suit, where necessary, and will
often retain the option of finessing later.
Dummy:
H- K10xxx
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
H- Q92
<- South

        Lead towards the H-Queen here first.  Later,
you may lead a Heart towards the North Heart, 
inserting the H10.  In this way, if West has the 
H-Jack and the suit breaks 3-2, you will be in
the North hand to cash the long Hearts.  Yes, you
COULD finesse the H-9 on the first round, but 
wouldn't it be frustrating to lose to the singleton
H-Jack?  :(

        One of the exceptions to the "play small
towards big" rules occurs when you have a doubleton
Queen or Jack and the lead will be coming around to
your Ax(xx).  Suppose West leads the H-5 here:
Dummy:
D- Q4
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
D- A32
<- South

        Since the D-Q will fall on the second round
anyway, you may as well play it NOW in the hopes 
that West has lead from the King.
Dummy:
C- J4
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
C- A32
<- South

        Similarly, we would rise with the C-Jack 
here, hoping that West has lead from C-KQx(x).

        If we add any good spot cards into the mix
the recommendation may swing back in favour of 
"2nd hand low" (i.e. playing small towards big).
Dummy:
S- Q4
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
S- A102
<- South

        By playing the S-4 we ENSURE ourselves
of a 2nd trick in this suit.


The Einstein-Idiot Principle


        This rule, often expressed as "remember that
the cards have BACKS on them", is fundamental.  You
must always bear in mind that, on the subject of
what you have in your hand, you are a genius.  Others
at the table are...well, far less prescient--and you
want to KEEP IT THAT WAY as Declarer.  After all,
Declarer doesn't have to worry about fooling partner!
Dummy:
C- xx
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
C- AKx
<- South

        West leads a small Club to East's Queen.  If
you decide to win this trick, do so with the HIGHEST
of your touching honours, the ACE.  If you win with
the C-King, West will KNOW that you started with the
C-AK, since EAST would have played the C-Ace ("3rd 
hand high") if East had it.  But, since East would
always play the LOWER OF TOUCHING HONOURS with
C-KQ(x), West will NOT know who has the C-King if
you win with the Ace.  In this way, you camouflage
your Club holding, and prevent the defence from
knowing the location of your HCPs until, hopefully, 
it is too late!  KEEP the OPPONENTS IN THE DARK!  
And ALWAYS give them EVERY chance to go wrong! :)
Dummy:
H- 87
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
H- AJ62
<- South

        In 3NT, you receive the H-King lead.  Keep 
in mind that MANY people lead the King from KQxx(x).
East does NOT want a Heart continuation, and signals
with the H-3.  You DO want a Heart continuation, so
you play the H-6.  West may now scratch hir head
and wonder who has the H-2.  Is it East, playing
the H-3 to ENCOURAGE from H-J32?  Had you played
the H-2 at trick one, of course, West would KNOW
that the H-3 was DEFINITELY East's smallest Heart
and would switch. :(
Dummy:
H- 87
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
H- A962
<- South

        This time, if East plays the H-3 under
the H-King lead (perhaps from H-J3 or H-103) you
will want to make it CLEAR to West that this is
a DISCOURAGING card by playing the H-2.  In a 
sense, then, Declarer is signalling attitude to
the opening leader!  High to encourage, low to
discourage!  In fact, if the opponents happen to
be playing "upside down attitude" you (as Declarer) 
will too, playing LOW to encourage and HIGH to 
discourage! :) 


Ducks, Avoidance and Endplays


        We will often find ourselves ducking a trick
which we could win, with the hope of exhausting one
opponent in the suit.  This is particularly common 
in No Trump Contracts, but DOES appear OFTEN in suit
contracts.
Dummy:
S- Axx
H- KQxx
D- Jxx
C- Kxx
<- North
West
+
+
+
+
East
Declarer:
S- xxx
H- J10xx
D- Ax
C- AQJx
<- South

        Well, you and Ollie are in a fine mess here.
West overcalled your 1C opening with 1S.  Ollie (NORTH) 
made a negative double, wrenching a 2H bid from you.  
Ollie leapt to 4H and, sure enough, West leads the S-K.  
Knowing that 5-card suits are more common than 6-carders,
you DUCK the opening lead!  You win the second spade and
play a trump...hoping that EAST has the H-Ace and does
NOT have a third Spade.  This gives you time to draw
trump and pitch a Spade on the 4th round of Clubs.  Sure
enough, West started with:
West:
S- KQJxx
H- xx
D- KQx
C- xxx
                You make 4H.  Well played!

        Often you will be in a situation where one
opponent presents a particular danger.  In such 
instances, we strain to keep the OTHER opponent on 
lead if we must lose a trick.  At IMPs, you have:
Dummy:
S- AQJ
H- xx
D- 9xxxx
C- AQ10
<- North
West
+
+
+
+
East
Declarer:
S- Kx
H- Axx
D- AQ10
C- 9xxxx
<- South

        In 3NT, you receive the H-King lead from West,
who has overcalled 1H along the way.  You hold up two 
rounds, winning the 3rd Heart as East follows to all 
three rounds.  With 4 majors suit tricks, we will 
need to get 4 tricks from one of the minors.  The 
minors are exactly equal.  Which should we choose?  
CLUBS!  We will take two finesses in Clubs.  What is
more, if East wins the 1st Club hook with, say, the
C-Jack, and returns a Diamond we will RISE with the 
D-Ace to prevent WEST from gaining the lead to cash 
two Hearts!  Sure enough, West started with:
West:
S- 109
H- KQJxx
D- KJx
C- Kxx
                And 3NT comes fluttering home. :)

        Endplays are often a natural outcrop of
counting a hand well.  You will often find yourself
in a situation where you have a "tenace" (i.e. the
1st and 3rd or 2nd and 4th best card in a suit) and
need to put a defender on lead, forcing them to lead
into your holding.  Suppose you hold D-AQ10 and feel
that LHO has the D-KJ9 left.  If you play off the
D-Ace, you will take no more tricks.  But if you 
EXIT with the D-Q or D-10, LHO must concede that
last two tricks to you!

        A variation on this common theme is the
"strip and endplay".  Here you find yourself in 6H:
Dummy:
S- Ax
H- Jxxx
D- Axxx
C- Jxx
<- North
West
+
+
+
+
East
Declarer:
S- Kx
H- AKxxx
D- KJx
C- AKQ
<- South

        You win the S-Queen lead and bang down the
H-AK, with EAST showing out after the first round.
Faced with a trump loser, you play another spade
and then THREE rounds of Clubs, "eliminating" your
holding in both black suits.  If WEST does not ruff in,
you will then play a TRUMP with the idea of FORCING
West to either concede a ruff-and-sluff (as you 
ruff the black card lead on Dummy and toss a Diamond
from your hand) OR to lead into the teeth of your
D-KJx.  If WEST DOES ruff one of the Clubs, WEST
will be faced with the same unpalatable choice.  No 
need for Diamond finesses on THIS hand!  West's held:
West:
S- QJ10x
H- Qxx
D- Q109
C- xxx
                Making 6H without breaking a sweat! :)


Finding Missing Honours


        
        Novices often wonder why experts are able to
succeed with so many finesses.  Aren't finesses a 50%
proposition for EVERYONE?  Yes, they are, but an 
astute Declarer can increase the success rate of hir
finesses in a variety of ways, including:

1.  Counting the opponents' points.

        If an opponent shows in with 12 HCPs so far
        but DID NOT OPEN when given the chance, that
        player's partner is MARKED for ALL of the
        remaining outstanding HCPs.

2.  Reading the opponents' signals.

        If an opponent leads a small card, you might
        finesse with dummy's AQx at trick one.  But
        if LHO leads a HIGHER card, which looks like
        "top of nothing", we may look for another
        way to make out TARGET.

3.  Draw inferences from the bidding (if any).

        Play the partner of any pre-emptor for most
        cards OUTSIDE their bid suit.  Play Opener
        or Overcaller for most cards in ANY suit.

        Even when the experienced player seems to have
NOTHING to go on, they STILL make slightly more than
50% of their finesses!  How?  By applying some very
basic rules.  The first applies ONLY to the trump
Queen:  always play opening leader for the trump
Queen.  Why?  Because if holding, say, Q83 one would
RARELY lead trumps.  But holding, say, 83 one may 
well have led one!  Hence, the mere fact that the
opening leader did NOT (presumably) lead a trump
tilts the balance SLIGHTLY in favour of the opening
leader holding the Queen!

        What about OTHER outstanding honours?  With
NOTHING else to go on, employ the "Hurdles Rule":  
Play Opener's Right Hand Opponent for any outstanding
honour.  Not DECLARER's RHO, mind you, but OPENER's
RHO!  Why?  Imagine an auction that starts with, say,
1C-P-1S-P.  Opener's LHO passed over 1C, a bid which
is EASILY overcalled.  Opener's RHO, on the other 
hand, had a much higher "hurdle" to overcome;  not
only was the auction higher, but RHO had also heard
hir partner pass!  Why does this increase the chance
of Opener's RHO holding more HCPs than Opener's LHO?  
Imagine two groups of 1000 people.  The first group
FAILED to jump over a 1-foot-high hurdle.  The second
group FAILED to jump over a 3-foot-high hurdle.  Which
group PROBABLY has the better high jumpers?  The second
group!  Similarly, we should assume that RHO's failure
to bid over a higher call than LHO is far less limiting
than Opener's LHO's inability to clear a lower obstacle. 


2HARD


            
        The well known "Principle of Restricted Choice"
states that if we are missing two honours, and an
opponent plays one on the first round, we should 
assume this to be that player's LAST CARD in the suit.
Dummy:
H- AK104
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
H- 9876
<- South

        Under the H-King East contributes the H-Jack.
To finesse or play for the drop of the H-Queen?  

        Since the two honours (H-QJ) are rarely
doubleton, come to your hand and FINESSE, expecting
West to have started with H-Q532 and East with 
a singleton ("stiff") H-Jack.

        Because the expression "Principle of 
Restricted Choice" is so difficult to remember, repeat
and decipher, we have invented the helpful mnemonic: 
        
        "2HARD" - 2 Honours Are Rarely Doubleton.


Squeezes


        Novices tend to be intimidated by the concept
of squeezes, dismissing them as the domain of more
experienced players.  In truth, squeezes can be even
easier than finesses!  The basis of all squeezes is
the idea of "isolating" one opponent, "overloading"
that opponent by forcing them to guard TWO (or more)
suits.  First, we should start by LOSING any tricks
we need to lose EARLY.  If, for example, we need
to make 12 tricks, and can only see 11, lose ONE
trick as early as possible so as to pave the way
for making the remaining 12.  This is called 
"rectifying the count".

        Next, we start running off all of our
winners, making certain we retain an entry to the
other hand.  Setting up a winner in the other hand
will not help us if we cannot enter the other hand
to enjoy it!

        The third item that we need is a "threat";
a card (one we are threatening to promote) which only
ONE opponent can guard against.  The Simple Squeeze,
then, USUALLY comes into play at trick #11.
Hand #1
S- A3
H- 2
D- --
C- --
Game: IMPs
Vuln: Both
S- KQ
H- A
D- --
C- --
N
W + E
S
S- J
H- --
D- KQ
C- --
S- 2
H- --
D- A2
C- --
        South plays the Diamond Ace.  What can poor
West do?  If West pitches the H-Ace, South will 
toss the S-3 from dummy and score the H-2!  And if
West jettisons the S-King or S-Queen, South ditches
the now-useless H-2 and claims the last two tricks
with the S-A3!  This, then, is the key:  whatever
West (the person you are squeezing here) pitches
at trick 11, Declarer pitches the OTHER suit (from
Dummy, in this case).  This is nothing more than an
application of another fundamental rule of card 
play:  Keep winners, toss losers.

        Note that if at some point in the play
South had disposed of the H-2 (say, to keep a 
3rd Spade) there would be no threat to West!  West
would simply get rid of the useless Heart Ace and
keep the S-KQ to score a trick.  Note also that
East is kept busy guarding those Diamonds, and 
cannot help West guard Spades.  Had East been dealt
another Heart, though, EAST could guard them and
allow West to concentrate on Spades.  In order for
the squeeze to work, then, West must be "isolated" 
as the ONLY one who can guard Hearts.

        Returning to the issue of "rectifying the
count" (i.e. losing your tricks EARLY) you will 
note that if we add one Spade to all four hands
above, the squeeze doesn't work because West can
pitch Spades and leave East to "mind the store"
with the S-Jx.  Hence, by ducking a spade EARLY
in the play (while we still have control of all
four suits) we may come to the above ending.

        And that is really all there is to the 
Simple Squeeze!  How can you remember these four
essentials?  Use the mnemonic "CITE":  Count, 
Isolate, Threat and Entry.  Rectify the Count, 
have a Threat, Isolate your victim and keep an 
Entry.  If those four things are in place, run 
your winners and wait for your opponent to start 
getting uncomfortable around trick 11!


A Final Note


  
        This lesson is intended as a primer ONLY.
For a FAR MORE COMPREHENSIVE textbook on play, I
STRONGLY recommend Louis H. Watson's "Play of the
Hand".  The definitive work on BIDDING will never
be written, but the definitive work on CARD PLAY
(defence and declarer play) HAS been! :)


Quiz


1.  Partner raises your 1NT opening to 3NT on C-AKQ9x 
    and nothing else.  All other suits are reasonably 
    secure.  You calculate that you need FOUR Club 
    tricks to make your contract.  Bearing in mind that
    you have no side entry to Dummy, how do you play 
    the Club suit...
Dummy:
C- AKQ92
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
C- 653
<- South
    A.  ...at IMPs?

    B.  ...at MatchPoints?
    

2.  You need only THREE Diamond tricks here: 
Dummy:
D- K54
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
D- AJ32
<- South

 
    You have plenty of entries to both hands.  At IMPs, 
    how do you play the Diamond suit for 3 tricks?
     

3.  About leading unsupported honours.... 

  A. Playing against opponents who know to cover an
     honour with an honour, is it EVER right to lead
     the H-Jack here?  
Dummy:
H- AK42
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
H- J653
<- South

  B. When can leading the H-Jack COST us a trick?


4.  Your opponents, who play standard bidding and
     carding methods, lead the S-7 against 1NT:3NT.
Dummy:
S- AQ102
<- North
West
+
East
Declarer:
S- 83
<- South

     What card should you play from Dummy at trick 1?
         


RAINBOW Series

The Rainbow Series, from 10:00 A.M. to 12:30 PST every weekday, is a lecture program on the SAYC system, from Opening Bids all the way through to the conventional aspects of SAYC. Unlike the FireSide and 5th Chair sessions mentioned above, the Rainbow Series is a semi-private lesson program for our students. Nevertheless, you are invited to stop by and "eavesdrop" on the discussion from the Spectator's Loft.

If you have any questions arising from these notes, or about the Rainbow Lesson Series, please do not hesitate to email me at: cpw@escape.ca

Lesson #1: Opening Bids
Lesson #2: Responses to Opening Bids
Lesson #3: Rebidding Strategies
Lesson #4: Interference
Lesson #5: OverCalls & Takeout Doubles
Lesson #6: Two-Suited Overcalls
Lesson #7: Pre-Empts
Lesson #8: Competing with Doubles
Lesson #9: Lebensohl
Lesson #10: Defensive Signalling
Lesson #11: Defensive Strategies
Lesson #12: Declarer Play


General Rules of SAYC Bidding
Fit Inspired Bids - "FIBs"
Doubles
Cuebids
IMPs Versus MatchPoints
Lebensohl
Hand Evaluation
Defensive Signals
Jacoby Transfers
Pre-Empts
Jacoby 2NT Response to 1H or 1S
Michaels Cuebids
3 Types of Responding Hands
Percentages in Bridge
Roman Key Card Blackwood
BROZEL over their 1NT
4th Suit Force
Assume Jumps Are Raises
Glossary of Terms
Colin's Rules of Bridge




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